The Ink House Bed and Breakfast, St. Helena

This gorgeous Italianate Victorian inn, built in the shape of an ink bottle by Napa settler Theron Ink in 1884, would merit three stars if it weren’t for its no-star location along a busy, noisy stretch of Highway 29. The three-story yellow-and-white home has seven sumptuously decorated guest rooms, plus a lavish living room and three parlors, one with an old-fashioned pump organ. The B and B’s most interesting architectural feature is the glass-walled cupola observatory that sits atop the house like the stopper of an inkwell and offers a sweeping 360-degree view of the Napa Valley hills and vineyards. The best (and quietest) room is the spacious, high-ceilinged French Room, with its richly carved French oak bed graced by an elegant quarter canopy. The rooms at the front of the house are for sound sleepers only. The innkeeper is incredibly friendly and helpful, and she’ll keep you nourished with a full country breakfast, plus wine and appetizers in the afternoon.