People either love or hate this stodgy, garlic-smelling Sicilian eatery. Every square inch is cluttered with hanging hams, fishnets, decorative plates, dolls, mirrors, and over 2 decades' worth of dust, Caffè Sport was once a culinary landmark. Now it's better known for its surly staff and eclectic ambience than for its good -- though cream- and butter-heavy -- food. Still, the fare is served up with hearty portions of tongue-in-cheek attitude along with huge garlic-laden pasta dishes. Lunch is tame in comparison to dinner, when the Sport is mobbed and lively, and strangers might be packed together family style. Disregard the menu and just accept the waiter's "suggestions." Whatever arrives -- whether calamari, mussels, or shrimp in tomato-garlic sauce, or pasta in pesto sauce -- it's bound to be bene. Bring a huge appetite and plenty of cash (they don't take credit cards), but above all, don't be late if you have a reservation.

Reservations: Reservations recommended

Transportation: Bus: 15, 30, 41, or 45