Been there and done that in every San Francisco dining room? Then it's time for Forbes Island, a wonderfully ridiculous floating restaurant disguised as an island (complete with lighthouse and real 40-ft. palm trees) and unknown to even most locals. The idea's kitschy, but the execution's actually quite wonderful. Here's how it works: Arrive at the dock next to Pier 39, call the restaurant via the courtesy phone, climb aboard its pontoon boat that takes you on a 4-minute journey to the "island" located 75 feet from the city's famed sea lions, and descend into the island's bowels to find a surprisingly classy, Tudor-like wood-paneled dining room. Warmed by a fireplace and amused by fish swimming past the portholes (yes, the dining room is a wee bit underwater), guests dine on surprisingly well-prepared classic French food such as decadent ragout of wild mushrooms, toasted brioche, and soft goat cheese or roasted half-rack of lamb with herbed flageolet beans, minted edamame, and natural lamb reduction jus. The added "Sea Lion" room boasts the closest view you'll ever get of the creatures. But be warned: The menu is very limited, the wine list features basic big-name producers without listing the vintage, and the "island" does gently rock. (Landlubbers need not apply or should take Dramamine a couple of hours beforehand.) One annoyance: the mandatory $3 shuttle fee since the only other way to get there is to swim.

Reservations: Reservations recommended

Parking: Validated parking at Pier 39 garage, $8 for up to 6 hr