It’s difficult to explain the feeling you get in the old-growth forests of Redwood National and State Parks without citing Alice in Wonderland. Like a jungle, the redwood forest is a multistoried affair, and the tall trees are just the top layer. Everything seems big and misty, from another era—flowering bushes cover the ground, 10-foot-tall ferns line the creeks, and the smells are rich and musty. It’s so outsize and primeval, you half expect to turn the corner and see a dinosaur.

When Archibald Menzies first noted the botanical existence of the coast redwood in 1794, more than 2 million acres of redwood forest carpeted California and Oregon. By 1965, heavy logging had reduced that to 300,000 acres, and it was obvious something had to be done if any were to survive. The state created several parks around individual groves in the 1920s, and in 1968 the federal government created Redwood National Park. In May 1994, the National Park Service and the California Department of Parks and Recreation signed an agreement to manage these conservation areas cooperatively.

Although logging of old-growth redwoods in the region is still a major bone of contention among the government, private landowners, and environmentalists, it’s auspicious that contention even exists—a sign that perhaps we have all learned to see the forest and the trees for what they are: the monarchs of all living things, a link to the age of the dinosaurs, and a humble reminder that mankind is but a hiccup in time compared to the venerable Sequoia sempervirens.

Getting There:
The southern gateway to the Redwood National and State Parks is the town of Orick. Even though U.S. 101 runs right through the middle of town, you can’t miss it anyway: Look for the dozens of burl stands along the road. Carved with chisels and chain saws, these former redwood logs have been transformed into just about every creature you can imagine. The northern gateway to the park is Crescent City near the Oregon border. It’s your best bet for a cheap motel, gas, fast food, and outdoor supplies.

If you’re approaching the park from the south, take the detour along Hwy 101 called the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway, which passes through groves of redwoods and elk-filled meadows before leading back onto the highway 8 miles later. Another spectacular route is the Coastal Drive, which winds through stands of redwoods and offers grand views of the Pacific.

Visitor Information:
In Orick you’ll find the Redwood Information Center, P.O. Box 7, Orick, CA 95555 ([tel] 707/464-6101), one of California’s rare examples of well-placed tax dollars. Stop here and pick up a free map; it’s open daily from 9am to 5pm. If you missed the Orick center, don’t worry: About 10 miles farther north on U.S. 101 is the Prairie Creek Visitor Center ([tel] 707/465-7354), which carries all the same maps and information. It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm in summer, daily from 10am to 4pm (sometimes later) in winter.

Before touring the park, pick up a free guide at the Redwood National and State Parks Headquarters and Information Center, 1111 Second St. (at K St.), Crescent City, CA 95531 ([tel] 707/464-6101). It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm.

If you happen to be arriving via U.S. 199 from Oregon, the rangers manning the Hiouchi Information Station ([tel] 707/458-3294) and Jedediah Smith Visitor Center ([tel] 707/458-3496) can also supply you with the necessary maps and advice. Both are open daily in summer from 9am to 5pm, and in winter when staffing is available. For more information about the Redwood National and State Parks, visit the website at www.nps.gov/redw.

Fees & Permits
Admission to the national park is free, but to enter any of the three state parks (which contain the best redwood groves), you’ll pay a $6 day-use fee, which gains you entry into all three. The camping fee is $20 per night for drive-in sites. (Reservations are highly recommended in summer.) Walk-in sites are free, though a permit is required.