The longtime residents of Guerneville—one of the busiest logging centers in the West during the 1880shave seen their town undergo a significant change of face in every recent decade. Once it was a haven for bikersthe leather, not the Lycra, sort—then it became a hangout for hippies. Now it’s a summer mecca for the Bay Area gay community and for naturalists attracted by the beauty of the redwoods and the Russian River. The town is a good launching spot for nature expeditions and winery touring. Korbel Champagne Cellars (13250 River Rd; 707/824-7000; www.korbel.com), overlooking the vineyards and the Russian River, is one of the region’s most popular wineries and offers free tastings. Armstrong Woods State Reserve (17000 Armstrong Woods Rd; 707/869-2015) is a peaceful grove of spectacular ancient redwoods with hiking trails. Equestrians should saddle up at Armstrong Woods Pack Station (707/887-2939; www.redwoodhorses.com), which offers 1-1⁄2-hour and half- and full-day horseback rides with gourmet lunches as well as overnight camping rides. From May through October, you can rent canoes, kayaks, and paddleboats at Johnson’s Beach & Resort (16241 1st St; 707/869-2022; www.johnsonsbeach.com) just under the main bridge. Johnson’s Beach is also home to the wildly popular Russian River Jazz Festival (707/869-2022; www.jazzontheriver.com), held every September. For more information, check out the Russian River Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Center (16209 1st St, Guerneville; 707/869-9000 or 800/823-8800; www.russianriver.com).