If James Beard were alive, he'd feel at home at this innovative but simply decorated restaurant overlooking the pounding surf of the Pacific from a bluff above. The kitchen offers self-styled Mediterranean cuisine, experimenting with the bounty of the Golden State to fashion rich combinations and harmonious flavors using organic Northern California produce whenever possible. The bistro part of the menu is reserved primarily for the pastas and hearty stews suitable to this far-northern setting, such as their award-winning Antoine's cassoulet, a jumble of pork, lamb, garlic sausage, and duck confit slowly cooked with white beans. Although the menu changes seasonally, for a taste of California, try the salmon primavera with lemon-caper butter, or the crisp-roasted duckling with wild-huckleberry sauce. Evenings bring live jazz in the cocktail lounge.

Reservations: Reservations recommended