Even if Ferndale isn’t on your itinerary, it’s worth taking a detour off Highway 101 to stroll for an hour or two down the colorful Main Street, browsing through the art galleries, gift shops, and cafés strangely reminiscent of Disneyland’s “old town.” Ferndale, however, is for real and hasn’t changed much since it was the agricultural center of Northern California in the late 1800s. In fact, the entire town is a National Historic Landmark because of its abundance of well-preserved Victorian storefronts, farmhouses, and homes. What really distinguishes Ferndale from the likes of Eureka and Crescent City, however, is the fact that Highway 101 doesn’t pass through it—which means no cheesy motels, liquor stores, or fast-food chains.
For a trip back in time, view the village’s interesting memorabilia—working crank phones, logging equipment, and a blacksmith shop—at the Ferndale Museum (515 Shaw St at 3rd St; 707/786-4466; www.ferndale-museum.org). Not officially a museum, but close enough, is the Golden Gate Mercantile (421 Main St.; 707-786-4891). Part of this general store hasn’t been remodeled (or restocked) in more than 50 years, giving you the feeling that you’re walking through some sort of time capsule or movie set. Far less historic but equally engrossing are the pedal-powered, amphibious entries in the wacky three-day World Championship Great Arcata to Ferndale Cross-Country Kinetic Sculpture Race on display at the Kinetic Sculpture Museum (580 Main St at Shaw St; no phone). The dusty, funky museum is unlike anything you’ve ever seen, but it seems a fitting tribute to a race that gives eccentricity new meaning.