The running joke in California is that Fresno is the “gateway to Bakersfield.” For most visitors, Fresno, 185 miles southeast of San Francisco, is just a place to pass through en route to the state parks; it can, however, be a good place to stop for food and lodging, and it makes a good base for exploring the Sierra National Forest.

Founded in 1874, in the geographic center of the state, Fresno is in the heart of the Central Valley and, in recent years, has experienced incredible growth. Like most growing cities, it has seen increases in crime, drugs, and urban sprawl.

As the seat of Fresno County, the city handles more than $3 billion annually in agricultural production. It also contains Sun Maid, the world’s largest dried-fruit packing plant, and Guild, one of the country’s largest wineries.

The best time to visit Fresno is between late February and late March so you can drive the Fresno County Blossom Trail. This 62-mile, self-guided tour takes in the beauty of California’s agrarian bounty at its peak. The trail courses through fruit orchards in full bloom and citrus groves with lovely orange blossoms and a heady natural perfume. The Fresno Convention and Visitors Bureau, 848 M St., Third Floor, in Fresno (800/788-0836 or 559/445-8300; www.fresnocvb.org), supplies full details, including a map.