Provincial Mediterranean specialties from Spain to Greece to North Africa spice up the menu with offerings such as seafood paella with North African couscous (a 200-year-old family recipe), cassoulet maison, and a Greek-style lamb shank. The five dining rooms are European in feel, cozied by roaring fires, wood tables, and antiqued walls. The international wine list has won awards, with 450 options. The dessert menu includes a Grand Marnier soufflé with fresh raspberry purée sauce and profiteroles. In winter request the fireplace dining room, and in summer ask for the terrace. Any time of year, expect everything here, from the decor to the owner, to be lively and colorful.

Reservations: Reservations recommended

Transportation: From Hwy. 1, take the Pacific Grove exit (Hwy. 68), turn left on Lighthouse Ave., and continue a block to 17th St