Monterey is now famous as the site of the world’s longest-running jazz festival, which draws nearly 50,000 visitors annually for performances by the likes of Tony Bennett, Sonny Rollins, and Branford Marsalis. The town itself, however, is much older than that -- and no less significant to state history. In the 1700’s Monterey was the capital of California under Spanish, Mexican, and American rule and the state constitution was drafted here in 1849. A major whaling center in the 1800s, Monterey eventually became the sardine capital of the Western Hemisphere when the first packing plant was built in 1900. By 1913, boats were bringing in 25 tons of sardines a night to the 18 canneries.

After the sardines disappeared, Monterey was forced to fish for tourist dollars instead; hence, an array of boutiques, knickknack stores, and theme restaurants now reside in converted sardine factories along the bay. Granted, plenty of history and heritage remains along Cannery Row, but you’ll have to weed through the tourist schlock to find them. Its saving grace is the world-class aquarium and beautiful Monterey Bay, where sea lions and otters still frolic in abundance.

As you distance yourself from the Row, however, you’ll discover Monterey is a pleasant seaside community with magnificent vistas, historic architecture, stately Victorians, and a number of quality lodgings and restaurants. More important, Monterey is only a short drive from Pacific Grove, Carmel, Pebble Beach, and Big Sur, and the lodgings here are far less expensive, which makes it a great place to set up base while exploring the Monterey coast.

The region’s most convenient runway, at the Monterey Peninsula Airport (831/648-7000; www.montereyairport.com), is 3 miles east of Monterey on Highway 68. American Eagle, Northwest, United, and US Airways run daily flights in and out of Monterey. Many nearby hotels offer free airport shuttle service. If you take a taxi, it will cost about $14 to $20 to get to a peninsula hotel. Several national car-rental companies have airport locations, including Dollar (800/800-3665; www.dollar.com) and Hertz (800/654-3131; www.hertz.com).

The Monterey County Convention and Visitors Bureau (877-MONTEREY; www.seemonterey.com) has two visitor centers: one located in the lobby of the Maritime Museum at Custom House Plaza near Fisherman’s Wharf, and the other at Lake El Estero on Camino El Estero. Both locations are open daily and offer maps, free brochures, and visitors’ guides.