A downtown gem, Beauséjour (bow-zay-ZHUR, French for “a beautiful visit”) presents French cuisine in a charming old building with a European country-house feel. The atmosphere may be a little prim, but the food is executed with rare skill and precision. Traditional favorites are well covered, including escargots in puff pastry and sautéed sweetbreads, but the menu also branches out into unusual, lighter fare. Starters might include pan-seared prawns on a bed of Parmesan mashed potatoes or duck mousse pâté with truffles. The soups are excellent, and the salads range from a very simple medley of mixed baby greens to a tiger prawn salad with grapefruit and red potatoes. The inviting entrées include roasted chicken served on marsala risotto and herbed carrots, calamari steak in a lemon-caper sauce, and filet mignon with a mushroom herb sauce. Beauséjour is also known for its duck with raspberry sauce and lamb with mint sauce and potato timbale. A reasonably priced prix-fixe dinner is offered daily and includes soup or salad, entrée, and dessert. AE, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; between 3rd and 4th sts.