Hong Kong, probably the world’s most competitive culinary arena, has hundreds of excellent restaurants vying to produce the freshest, subtlest, and most exciting flavors. In 1987 Alice Wong, whose family owns four Flower Lounges in and around that city, expanded their empire to California with a small restaurant on Millbrae’s main drag (which was sold a few years back). Its success prompted her to open another, fancier branch on Millbrae Avenue. Fortunately, the food at the Millbrae location has remained legendary, thanks largely to the Hong Kong chefs, who continue to produce cuisine according to the stringent standards of their home city. The red, gold, and jade decor is pure Kowloon glitz (although the patrons are comfortably informal), and the service is outstanding. Among the best dishes on the vast menu are the exquisite minced squab in lettuce cups, the delicate crystal scallops in shrimp sauce, the fried prawns with walnuts, and any fish fresh from the live tank. An excellent Peking duck is served at a moderate price. AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; at El Camino Real.