
Japanese businessman Kazuo Sugitani was so happy with the education his son received at Danville’s famed Athenian prep school that he wanted to give something back to the town. Blending the best of East and West cuisine, Bridges is a pretty nifty gift. Sugitani eventually passed the restaurant on to his son Ryoto, who wisely recruited executive chef Allen Vitti, previously of Fringale in San Francisco. Vitti has created a pared-down selection of superbly well-crafted dishes, including a delicate three-fish tartare of ahi, yellowfin tuna, and salmon with diced mangoes, tomatoes, and avocados; a seared lemongrass-rosemary marinated rack of lamb served with mashed sweet potatoes and a cherry port wine sauce; a melt-in-your-mouth spinach and mushroom ravioli; and spicy pan-seared sea scallops and prawns with a roasted pepper curry sauce. The respectable wine list includes an extensive collection of dessert wines to match such sweet delights as the Tahitian vanilla-bean crème brûlée, a berry pudding topped with lychee gelée, or the popular go-ahead-and-splurge dessert sampler for two. For those on a budget, step across the street to Bridges’ latest offspring, Zensai, for a slightly more Pacific Rim experience at much slighter prices.
AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; dinner Tues-Sat; full bar; reservations recommended; from I-680, take Diablo Rd exit, go west to Hartz Ave, turn left on Hartz, and drive 2 blocks to Church St.