In the exclusive community of Blackhawk, this glamorous, offbeat 7,000-square-foot restaurant is a testament to California’s adoration of the automobile. The Grille’s exotic interior glows with brushed stainless steel, copper, and verdigris. Lighting fixtures are stylized hubcap sconces, and the bar is topped with etched glass. There’s an eclectic but down-to-earth menu of wood-fired pizzas and satisfying and competently prepared entrées, including the pan-seared Alaskan halibut with golden tomato gazpacho, bay shrimp, and sweet peppers. The wine list is vast and focuses on California vintners. Desserts, like everything else about this place, are excessive and fluctuate in quality: try the decadent Blackhawk peanut butter cup with roasted peanut fudge gelato and chocolate ganache or the blackberry-cassis granita with macerated berries and vanilla tuile. AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Sat, dinner every day, brunch Sun; full bar; reservations recommended; from I-680, take Crow Canyon exit, head east on Crow Canyon, drive 7 miles to Camino Tassajara, and bear right to Blackhawk Plaza.